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Mens's Fashion Tips
MENS FASHION TIPS for SPECIFIC BODY TYPES
DRESSING FOR YOUR BODY TYPE IF YOU'RE:
A TALL MAN: When dressing for your body type, tall men often want to avoid looking gangly, gawky or gumpy.
DO'S: Wear heavier cloths and also patterns that are a bit busier, such as windowpanes and plaids, these tend to make you look fuller. Accessorize in detail, your breast pocket should always have a handkerchief, and your shirts should have cufflinks. A tall thin man's jacket shoulders should extend slightly past his natural shoulder width. Your jacket should always have at least 3 outside pockets, some sartorial experts suggest 4. A tall man's suit pants should ALWAYS be cuffed at least an inch and a half. Your suit coat's outer hip pockets should be even with the bottom button hole or slightly above, to compress the vertical line.
DONT'S: Never wear tight-fitting suits, they make you appear even taller. Avoid suit jackets with thin lapels as well as bulky, built up square shoulders. Don't button your bottom button on your jacket...it will make
you look thinner. Finally, DO NOT wear your suit jacket unbuttoned, ever. You are better off, taking it off altogether. Nothing looks sloppier than that, especially for tall men.
A HEAVY SET MAN: Bigger men often look for clothes that give a "slimming effect" or at least help hide the plumpness when dressing for body type.
DO'S: Dress in dark, solid or striped, 2-button single breasted suits. These are great because they do not draw attention to horizontal lines or a man's bulk. You should look to emphasize height, because it draws away
from the emphasis on bulk. Wear suits jackets that are cut generously around your waist. Suit pants should be worn at your natural waist (fastened slightly below the belly button). Ask a tailor about "English" pleats, also called "forward" pleats as they face inward. These pleats hide bulk well, especially when viewed from the side, the vantage point where the stomach is most noticeable. English pleats also permit the pants legs
to fall straight down from the waistband.
DONT'S: NEVER, ever, ever wear double-breasted suits. These suits make hefty men look plump. Their buttons attract attention to the midsection and EMPHASIZE WIDTH.
A SHORTER MAN: When dressing for your body type, men of shorter stature often want to wear clothes that accentuate length visually and avoid cutting the torso in half. This is easily done.
DO'S: Solids and stripes are your friend. Solids should be a staple of the diminutive man's arsenal, because they make you look taller and leaner. Stripes are great because they encourage the eye to view in a up and down pattern, but take note that the stripes on a suit should be no more than 3/4 of an inch and even less for shirts. You look better in suits than in odd jackets and trousers, because the latter cuts you in half visually, causing you to appear shorter than reality. But a suit on the other hand, presents a unified vertical line. A shorter man's sleeves should ALWAYS show a bit of shirt cuff, a 1/2 inch or so. If the sleeves are too long, it give those of short stature the appearance of a little boy. Look for suits with high shoulder pads, they are a blessing for shorter men, because the elevated shoulderline and collar increase the sense of height more than anything.
Look for suit jackets that are ventless, they also make you look taller and slimmer. Single-breasted suit jackets whose front edges below the waist button flare outward, also lengthen the leg line, this style is called "open quarters" by top tailors. The diminutive man should always wear his suit pants at the natural waist. This makes your legs seem longer and makes you seem taller. Make sure your pants legs are just long enough to touch your shoes. As far as patterns are concerned, select patterns whose vertical (up & down) aspect dominates the horizontal (side to side) aspect, ask us about herringbone patterns. Jackets with flapless (or "besom") pockets look great on shorter men, because they look so sleek. If you are using Vincente Custom Tailors, we will set the breast pocket a little higher than normal on the suit coat, and the hip pockets a tad lower, this nuance helps elongate your silhouette. Lastly, with neckwear, solids elongate the best, very discreet stripes and small patterns work nicely.
DONT'S: Don't bother with tweeds and flannels, they are bulky and make a man look wider rather than taller. The same rules applies for plaids because they emphasize horizontal lines, in effect encouraging people's eyes to move side to side. Make it a point not to wear suit jackets that are extra long, because the extra material covers leg length, and makes a man short in stature appear even shorter. The tail of the coat should be long enough to cover the rear and no longer. Also avoid wearing overlong sleeves, it gives the illusion of being swallowed up by your clothing, and may invite a couple chuckles at your expense. Lastly, the shorter gentleman should not wear double breasted suits. The double set of buttons on these suits make you look wider and the extra flap of cloth in front makes you seem bulkier. To top it all off, the lapels on a double-breasted suit, which come to a point above the bottom of the collar, add an unflattering pair of near-horizontal lines, which in turn makes the shorter man look bad.
A VERY MUSCULAR MAN: Chiseled, heavily muscled men want to find suits that accommodate their large upper physique, without making their waist and lower physique appear large as well. This is easy when dressing for your body type.
DO'S: Look for unpadded or lightly padded shoulders, others wear padding to have shoulders that look like yours, you don't need them. Adding extra will only be overkill. You have a big chest, so choose suit coats that have a bit of waist suppression (meaning that it comes inward a little bit at the bottom). That way your waist does not look as wide as your large chest. Also when dressing for your body type, try wearing smooth worsteds of solid, striped or some elongating type pattern. Two and-three button, single-breasted jackets are also very helpful.
DONT'S: Never put all your faith in "athletic cut" suits, if you find some that fit nicely, that is great. But be aware that these suits are NOT cut differently for you, they are simply paired differently, bigger jackets paired with much smaller suit pants. When truly dressing for your body type, "athletic cut" leaves something to be desired. It is absolutely imperative to avoid jackets with narrow lapels and dress shirts with tiny collars, it is a really bad look for a heavily muscled man. And of course, stay away from double-breasted suits.
So, will you find yourself more equipped with knowledge when you begin dressing for your body type? We at Vincente' Custom Tailors, certainly hope so. Dressing for your body type is both an art and a science. We have done tons of research on your behalf. So please, use it, and remember to have fun while selecting your clothing.
DONT'S: Don't bother with tweeds and flannels, they are bulky and make a man look wider rather than taller. The same rules applies for plaids because they emphasize horizontal lines, in effect encouraging people's eyes to move side to side. Make it a point not to wear suit jackets that are extra long, because the extra material covers leg length, and makes a man short in stature appear even shorter. The tail of the coat should be long enough to cover the rear and no longer. Also avoid wearing overlong sleeves, it gives the illusion of being swallowed up by your clothing, and may invite a couple chuckles at your expense. Lastly, the shorter gentleman should not wear double breasted suits. The double set of buttons on these suits make you look wider and the extra flap of cloth in front makes you seem bulkier. To top it all off, the lapels on a double-breasted suit, which come to a point above the bottom of the collar, add an unflattering pair of near-horizontal lines, which in turn makes the shorter man look bad.
A VERY MUSCULAR MAN: Chiseled, heavily muscled men want to find suits that accommodate their large upper physique, without making their waist and lower physique appear large as well. This is easy when dressing for your body type.
DO'S: Look for unpadded or lightly padded shoulders, others wear padding to have shoulders that look like yours, you don't need them. Adding extra will only be overkill. You have a big chest, so choose suit coats that have a bit of waist suppression (meaning that it comes inward a little bit at the bottom). That way your waist does not look as wide as your large chest. Also when dressing for your body type, try wearing smooth worsteds of solid, striped or some elongating type pattern. Two and-three button, single-breasted jackets are also very helpful.
DONT'S: Never put all your faith in "athletic cut" suits, if you find some that fit nicely, that is great. But be aware that these suits are NOT cut differently for you, they are simply paired differently, bigger jackets paired with much smaller suit pants. When truly dressing for your body type, "athletic cut" leaves something to be desired. It is absolutely imperative to avoid jackets with narrow lapels and dress shirts with tiny collars, it is a really bad look for a heavily muscled man. And of course, stay away from double-breasted suits.
So, will you find yourself more equipped with knowledge when you begin dressing for your body type? We at Vincente' Custom Tailors, certainly hope so. Dressing for your body type is both an art and a science. We have done tons of research on your behalf. So please, use it, and remember to have fun while selecting your clothing.
You have been prepared and are ready for success in dressing for your body type.